The Wild Westside

Our first stop today was Times Square the tourist Mecca of New York City.  Known as Long Acre Square before being renamed for the New York Times it is also known as “The Great White Way” which was coined by O.J. Gude because he recognized the “commercial potential of electrically enhanced billboards” (BG. 217).  That potential has been more than fully realized today.  Ads can be seen for various consumer products, movies, television shows, and much more.   Another nickname for Time Square is “the crossroads of the world” because it is known and visited by people from every part of the planet. Famous also for its hosting of New Years Eve Celebrations since 1904, when Times publisher Adolph Ochs lowered a wooden and iron ball illuminated with 100 25 watt light bulbs from the NY Times Building at One Times Square. Today, the ball that is dropped is adorned with Waterford Crystal. 

We made our way out of the crowds in Times Square and walked east to Rockefeller Center passing by Radio City Music Hall, home of the famous Rockettes.  Perhaps most known for its Rockefeller Center Christmas Tree and iconic ice skating rink, Rockefeller Center is an enormous complex consisting of theatres, plazas, underground concourses and shops and is the worlds largest privately owned business and entertainment center (BG, 243).  Some other notable attractions include NBC studios and the Top of the Rock Observation Deck which offers NYC views that rival the Empire State Buildings observatory.  INSERT IMAGES.  The earliest constructed building in the complex is the GE Building, originally the RCA building.  At the north entrance the ceiling and walls were covered in Jose Maria Sert murals American Progress and Time which I found remarkable.  

Next stop on our tour was the Museum of Modern Art which is by far my favorite museum in New York.  This museum has something for everyone from Surrealism to German Expressionism, to the Impressionists to Pop Art.  Anyone could spend all day wandering around admiring all of the various works and would be hard pressed not to be inspired.  As we made our way through the museum I found myself wandering away from the group, going from gallery to gallery admiring the impressive work on the walls and stands.  I enjoyed this quiet time observing and reflecting but was ready to rejoin the group and move on to our next destination.




 

After a ride uptown on the train we arrived in Harlem.  As soon as we stepped out of the train station it was apparent that we had left the touristy areas of midtown Manhattan.  Harlem is African American life and culture. Same as much of the city, Harlem was founded by the Dutch in 1658 and was called Nieuw Haarlem.  By 1837 the New York and Harlem railroad made it possible for the development of the area.  Its residents were a mixture of many immigrant populations ranging from Russians to Italians to Spaniards and even Eastern European Jews (BG, 437).  By the 1920’s Harlem was inspiring a renaissance (called the New Negro movement at the time) which encompassed jazz, blues, poetry, plays and political commentary.  Famous venues such as the Cotton Club and the Apollo Theatre launched the careers of such icons as Duke Ellington and Ella Fitzgerald, just to name a few.  Later it would be an important place for leaders of the Civil Rights Movement such as Malcolm X and Rev. AdamClayton Powell Jr.  Their influence on the neighborhood can be seen in the street signs today. Once known primarily for its high crime rate, today the neighborhood has become a tourist destination and is undergoing gentrification. 

We visited the HarlemMuseum, which I felt was underwhelming.  Considering the rich history and numerous icons associated with the neighborhood I felt the exhibits were lacking.  As a music lover I expected more from the home of Jazz.  Walking west through Morning-side Heights and the Columbia University campus we made our way to Grant’s Tomb, which is the resting place of both Ulysses S. Grant and his wife Julia Dent Grant.  This memorial was constructed in “1897 and is the largest mausoleum in North America” (http://www.harlemonestop.com/organization.php?id=168).

To end the day we went into the Riverside Church. This immense building was “modeled after the 13^th century Gothic cathedral in Chartres, France.” This “big ass church” covers two city blocks and reaches a height of 392 feet. The pulpit has had some of the centuries greatest speakers give speeches such as Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Nelson Mandela, Marian Wright-Eldelman and Dr. Tony Campolo. It was a very peaceful way to end the day.

The Enchanting East Side

Our tour of the east side of Manhattan started at Penn Station. Our first destination was the Solomon R.Guggenheim Museum this museum holds “some 4000 paintings, sculptures and works on paper from the impressionist period to the present” (BG, 367).  When it first opened, critics called it a “bun”, a “snail”, and an “insult to art” however, today it is greatly admired.  It is Considered Frank Lloyd Wright’s only significant building in the city.  It is architecturally remarkable and ahead of its time.  Inside is a spiral ramp that spans nearly a quarter of a mile (BG, 368) and normally allows visitors to wind their way up into the various galleries.  On this day, the ramps were closed so we had to take the stairs which took away from the allure of the impressive architecture and original way to move about inside a museum.  I found it somewhat of a disappointing experience. Despite this, the museum is one of the best in the city and houses works from world renowned artists such as Van Gogh, Cezanne, Picasso, and Matisse.

From the Guggenheim we crossed Museum Mile (5^th Ave) and entered Central Park at 90^th street towards the Reservoir.  The Reservoir starts at about 86^th street and continues north to 96^th street. It was constructed in the 1860’s as a temporary water supply for NYC.  It holds a billion gallons of water which at that time would supply the city for more than two weeks. Today some say it would last us only four hours! Luckily for us, we do not rely on this water supply and it is now a scenic and serene place where thousands of joggers, walkers and tourists enjoy a beautiful view of the city (www.centralparknyc.org)   

 

As we made our way out of the park toward the Museum of the City of New York we passed by the Conservatory Garden a six acre garden, it is the parks only formal garden (BG, 297).   

The Museum of the City of New York was founded in 1923.  This museum explores the city’s complex history from the time that it was a Dutch colony till the present (BG, 376).  Here we were shown a 25 minute film detailing the history of the city.  I was impressed by the film because it gave a very entertaining yet informative history in a short amount of time. The exhibits depict early New York scenes such as the purchase of Manhattan Island and George Washington’s inauguration.   

There was an entire room dedicated to Joel Grey and his many Broadway successes.  

Also included in the exhibits were rooms fashioned as they were in the past, including this drawing room from the1860’s

Headed back downtown, we took the subway to 59^th street and Lexington.  As we walked south toward Grand Central Terminal we passed the Seagram Building on Park Avenue and 52^nd street. This building is home to the famous Four Seasons Restaurant.  Surprisingly, in front of the building was a very large sculpture of a yellow teddy bear.   

This 20 ton teddy bear has been set up by Christie’s and will be auctioned off.  As we approached Grand Central Terminal I realized just how large the building is as we could see it from blocks away. This massive building was constructed in the early 20^th Century.   

The interior was recently restored and refurbished between 1994 and 1998 when the escalators, air conditioning and Grand Central Market were added.  750,000 people commute or at least walk through GTC daily and over 1,000,000 on the holidays. “Grand Central is served by Metro-North commuter trains, 31 commuter and 15 city bus routes, 7 subway lines, buses to and from the area's three airports, and two million taxis a year”  (www.grandcentralterminal.com). 

Home of the Notorious B.I.G. and me - Brooklyn!!!

Being a native of Brooklyn, I was very excited to start the day. Keeping in mind that the temperature was to reach 100 degrees, I packed a bag with frozen water and a radio. I threw on a pair of shorts and a tank top and got on the R train. When I transferred over to the D train, I noticed that it was full of people most likely going to the same place I was: Coney Island. During the first half of the 20^th century, Coney Island was considered the world’s largest and premier amusement area because it was a beach resort that offered millions of New Yorker and visitors alike, a carefree and thrilling ride. 

Home of the world famous Cyclone, Wonder Wheel, the Mermaid Parade, Nathans and the Brooklyn Cyclones, it still attracts millions of people a year.

 I remember going to Coney Island as a kid with my family. People would line the beach almost covering the entire area leaving little room for maneuvering. I was surprised at the amount of people that still gather to bathe in the sun and take a dip in the cold waters of the Atlantic Ocean. I am not really a beach person, but I do appreciate the vastness of the sea. So instead of going in the water, I walked down the boardwalk towards Brighton Beach where I met up with the rest of the class. We walked back towards Coney Island and stopped at Nathan’s because no trip to Coney Island is worth it without a cold beer and a Nathans hot dog. For some it was their first time there, for me, I remember cutting school to come to ride the Cyclone and enjoy the freak shows.

            After Coney Island, we got on the train and headed towards the other side of Brooklyn.  Brooklyn Heights, known for its brownstone homes, views of the NYC skyline and affluent residents started thriving after 1814 when Robert Fulton’s steam ferry the Nassau allowed for easier commutes to and from Manhattan.  Sometimes called New York’s first suburb, it was grounds for a disastrous battle on Aug 27, 1776 where roughly 2700 Americans lost there lives and or were wounded.  To get a taste of how NYC’s transit was built we went to the NY Transit Museum, located in an unused subway station (BG, 467-68).  If you didn’t already know that it was there, it would be easily mistaken for a regular subway entrance.  Inside, we got a chance to see some of the first subway cars that were operated in New York. The wooden constructions are so different from what we use now, showing that it took more handiwork to create them than the ones we ride in now. Inside the old cars, were vintage advertisements some of which were quite graphic. There were also a lot of ads for US Savings Bonds.  It was definitely a trip back in time.  

Next we made our way to the Brooklyn Historical Society.  This building has an interesting and diverse history.  Since its inception in 1863 as the Long Island Historical Society it has undergone several transformations such as becoming a Red Cross headquarters during World War I, to a Library in 1926, to a museum and educational center in the 1980’s.  Today BHS houses the most extensive collection of Brooklyn related materials in the world. I most enjoyed the pictures of “old school” Brooklyn. 

Then it was off to the Brooklyn Promenade where, in my opinion, the best and most beautiful views of the city can be seen.  This is a place where people gather to watch the 4^th of July fireworks display over the East River.  Word of advice, if you plan on coming here to watch them, come early and bring everything you will need for hours as you will not be able to move from your spot until the show is over. 

All day we had been making our way northwest toward Manhattan and now we continued by way of the iconic Brooklyn Bridge.  Construction of the bridge started in 1869 and was not completed until 1883.  This massive structure spans 1,595 feet across and hovers 276 feet above the East River.  It took approximately 4,000 people and $15 million to build. It is currently undergoing massive restorations which make it less stunning and more of an eye sore, but whatever it takes to restore, it is well worth it because anyone who thinks of NYC thinks of the Brooklyn Bridge.  As we walked across the bridge (like I have numerous times) I was surprised to learn about a custom known as Love Locks  in which lovers place padlocks on fences or bridge railings as a symbol of their everlasting love.  INSERT IMAGE. It was fun to learn something new about my beloved Brooklyn Bridge; it is part of this custom.  For those of us who had enough energy after a long day of exploring Brooklyn by rail and by foot we treated ourselves to drinks and snacks at South Street Seaport. 

           

The Biggest Borough- Queens

The borough of Queens is home to the N.Y Mets, symbolizing NY pride; The Unisphere, a symbol of “peace through understanding” for the 1964 Worlds Fair; the Queens Museum, 5 Pointz: Institute of Higher Burning; a graffiti artists dream, Gantry Plaza State Park, and 2,225,175 people from all over the world. It is the largest borough in the city of NY, covering 112.2 square miles. Settled in c. 1635 by the Dutch, it is now the nation’s most diverse county with more than 130 languages being spoken (BG 493).  

 

 Our exploration of Queens started at Penn Station where we hoped on the 7 train, otherwise known as the “International Express.” As we rode, we got a glimpse of the diversity that Queens has to offer. When we arrived at Willets Point we were steps away from Citi Field, home of the NY Mets. After a short walk through Flushing Meadows Park, we gathered to listen to Mike discuss the role of the Worlds Fair in the history of New York. From a distance we could see one of the biggest globes ever built. The Unisphere is 700,000 lbs of stainless steel, stands 12 stories high and its diameter is 120ft. Built by Gilmore D. Clarke in 1963-64, “it has now come to represent the borough” (BG. 497). 

Next, we visited the Queens Museum. Originally built in 1939, as the New York City Pavilion for that year’s Worlds Fair, by Robert Moses and Aymer Embury III, and once home of the United Nations (1946-1950), it is the only building left standing. Today it houses the Panorama, a scale model of the five boroughs, and the watershed exhibit, built to “celebrate the immense and intricate inner workings” of the city’s water supply.  Being a New Yorker, I have to say that this was one of the most impressive exhibits that I have ever seen. This being my first time here, I was amazed at the craftsmanship that went into building these exhibits. The Panorama was built by Robert Moses and 100 great architectural model makers of that time. It includes every building in the five boroughs through 1992. The watershed exhibit measures over 700 square feet and weighs 5 tons. Another exhibit included is the Neustadt collection of Tiffany Lamps displaying 500 crates of glass Lamps (GB. 497). 

Later, we got on the train again and went to an area of Jackson Height dubbed “Little India” because it is home to more Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi people than anywhere else in New York. After a delicious lunch at the Jackson Diner, a spacious restaurant serving typical northern Indian dishes, we arrived at the Queens Museum of the Moving Image. This museum is dedicated to the understanding and appreciation of the art, history, technique, and technology of film, television, and digital media. Here we got to see many familiar faces from TV and film.

Afterwards, we took a short ride on the train again and reached the “highly grungy” 5Pointz: Institute of Higher Burning considered by many to be a graffiti mecca. We were all dazzled by the artwork that covered the walls of this 200,000 square foot factory building. We stopped and watched as artists sprayed the walls with works of art. 

Unfortunately, we didn’t stay for very long because if was off to Gantry Plaza State Park where we were astonished at the magnificent New York Skyline. Since 1998, this park has been flourishing with native grasses, flowers and its spectacular views of the city. After a long day of walking around we were all pretty tired but glad that we made it and that we got to see all the beauty that is Queens.